Cenacolo di Ognissanti, and the Chiesa

Three of us took a morning trip to the church where Adi Da’s Art had been on display during last year’s Winter In Florence arts festival.  It is an old monastery housing fantastic Ghirlandaio frescoes, including “The Last Supper”.  The Cenacolo is by the river, and in the 20th Century had known severe damage due to high flooding in the city. Restoration had been selective and inconsistent in quality and style. One gets the feeling that if a patron wanted some part restored that small part would be repainted, leaving the rest in its earlier condition. But it is wonderful to see the art in its original setting.  In the Vespucci family church next door there was also much wonderful art.  There is a radiance and transcendental quality in the art in these two buildings.  Outside in a small square a wonderful bronze statue stands… Hercules wrestling with a lion.  I love the orbiting energy of man and beast, where they become a single force of movement and animal strength.

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Moved House … again.

The day after moving to the apartment with the porthole views of the Duomo I was moved to an apartment by the marketplace.  It was disorienting, not being able to figure out where in Florence I was waking up, and after spending a day out I couldn’t remember where I was supposed to go “home” to.  But the apartment was really classy and spacious with every convenience and new everythings.

Next day had to move again, this time moving over close to the train station into the apartment that had hosted the party celebrating the dancers on the 17th, the night before the final performance of Divina.com.

I took photos in the foyer to this building, as it was very interesting.  My guide for the next 24 hours, Gerhard Brammer, somehow found his way into the picture.

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Last night’s rehearsals for Divina.com

Keith Ferrone

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Accademia, Firenze

Today I headed for the Accademia. But I started out in the wrong direction. I arrived only a few minutes late for my appointment, but I had paid a premium to avoid the lines.  Still there were lines, before entering and after — about 10 minutes each.  Eventually a clerk with a fistful of tickets made his way down the line handing tickets to anybody who’d already paid.

Beautiful Icon, unfortunate flash

Accademia is noisier than I’d like, and they are VERY strict about no photographs. But the art is good. There are lots of icons, include some Russian ones (shouldn’t those be given back to the Russians?), there is David. I also found the plaster model for the beautiful sculpture I’d admired at the Carmellite garden.  Here’s some detail about it:

It was a monument by Lorenzo Bartolini commissioned by Carolina Ungher Sabatier, a famous Viennese singer (contralto) in memoriam of her parents.

Carolina Ungher Sabatier

The plaster was just one of zillions of plaster statues in a hall of plasters (which included some amazing Michelangelo stone slaves, half-finished).  So all the people paying to see it at the Accademia are missing the beautiful real thing.

Another thing I liked was the illustrated stories.  It’s not that I like the stories, but I liked seeing how illustrators were employed back then. The job was really to paint miniatures on furniture, and occasionally in manuscripts. on the side of a trunk one might find a representation of the story of Orpheus and Eurydice with all the detail and care given to church frescoes.  The wealthy kept their artists busy.

As for David, he is magnificent.  From a distance he is a beautiful young man that you could fall in love with, and when you get up close he is of monumental size.  As a result, all that emotion that he evokes is transformed into awe.

David by Michelangelo

It was interesting to overhear a guide saying that Michelangelo had such a unique way of working that he had to work alone. As a result, he had no personal life. His life was his art.

Outside I found another living sculpture.

Living Sculpture with fans

Back to the apartment and back to work!

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Uffizzi

I did a morning tour of the Uffizzi. There was a LOT to see, and as could be expected after a while I was starting to feel satiated.  Then I came upon the Botticelli Venus.  That is a painting you could never get tired of.  In fact, I have never seen a photograph that did it justice.  It is radiant.

On the other side of the same room crowds were obscuring a modest sized painting.  I waited for them to clear and went to take a look.  It was instantly clear why da Vinci is so special.  Not just his gift for detail– everything about the painting was full of feeling, light, and communication beyond the ordinary.  It is the Annunciation. And again no photograph can prepare you for its fragile and exquisite beauty.

The aisles and aisles of portraits wear thin. After a while you realize you are looking at monuments to dead people.  The lingering fragments of egos who shaped our present culture.  Even the religious icons taken out of their original settings become historical records of the artists, and artist’s time, and the patrons of the art.

I can’t decide if I am relieved or not by this reduction of the content of the art, but I think I am leaning towards preferring to receive the art in its original setting–and without commentary.

I went to the rooftop and shot some views of the city (or what is allowed from that balcony).

As I attempted to leave I was ushered through the bloody realm of Caravaggio.  I could do without him and his entire movement, but room after room was draped in red, featuring the bloody tales.

I left without finishing that tour.

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New Digs

Had to move apartments today, and one more move tomorrow afternoon, then departure early Tuesday morning.

Don’t like the hopping, but at least it’s all in the same building. Last night I managed to leave my keys in the apartment and spent a couple of hours hanging out at street level hoping for a glimpse of my housemates. After a while I relaxed and felt completely surrendered to the situation.  This is reality.  There is no use fighting it.

There’s a completely different view over the rooftops.  Now I can see the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio plus a church tower.

The bells aren’t as loud since we’re at a different angle. This apartment has some quirks to it. It is wonderfully spacious, but there are no cabinets for storing food, there is only a tiny bathroom for three bedrooms, and all the utilities are as if made by Tonka or Hasbro toys. We’re camping out on the wireless hub from our old apartment whose windows are catty-corner to these.

Heading off for the Uffizzi.

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Cappella dei Brancacci

Today I woke up nine-ish knowing I would be visiting Brancacci Chapel.  I’d read online about its beauty and interest as a milestone of innovative art practices.

Most of the Carmellite church is darkened because it is under renovation. But the enclave sponsored by the Brancacci family (wealthy silk merchants) had survived a major fire, and is therefore in better condition.  The original paintings by Masaccio survive as milestones of Renaissance painting.

I felt a great sorrow in that place.  I could speculate as to its origin, but can also attribute it to my hypersensitivity on the heels of a high-pressured stretch of time.

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How Was It?

I think that is probably the question on everyone’s minds. How was the premiere performance of Divina.com?

The answer is a broad one, of course.  For the audience (“guests”) the evening began with aperitifs in the museum courtyard, while tech setup continued.  About a half hour after the doors opened to guests, the dancers came onstage in their leotards to do their warmup class with Marga Nativo, their ballet mistress.  This was a special treat for the audience who felt drawn in and intimately involved in the whole performance.  It was also unavoidable, as there is no curtain, and there is no backstage to speak of.

To perform such a large piece at the Bargello necessitates that kind of inclusive quality. There is an open area in the center, and a colonnade around the sides with classic arched ceiling that hosts all the statues.  The stage basically spans 3/4 of the width of the open area, and 2/3 of the depth as well, leaving room for about 100 seats in front of the stage and another 150 or so under the colonnade.

Stage at the Bargello Museum

To the right of the stage (stage left), is a zone with poor visibility, so all seats were removed, leaving a nice open milling space for the aperitivo.  That was hosted by the hotelier and restaurateur of Palazzuolo Sul Senio, who took advantage of the opportunity to promote their village as a vacation site.

Stage as seen from tech table

From 5 to 7:30pm we did a full run-through. I think this might have sapped the dancers a little bit, but it definitely helped anchor the details for everyone, especially the lighting designers who hadn’t been able to practice all their cues even once yet.  Some costume details were figured out for the first time, and Mirko Bottai tells me he was finishing up costumes just before the ballet began.

I have to make an aside.. Mirko is a total sweetheart.  He’s a very energetic vital with lots of vision, lots of talent.  He said his goal was to bring Adi Da’s art down onto the stage through the costumes, and I think he did a really good job.

The projection professionals were really challenged to meet the requirements and limitations of this gig, and there are more details to handle before the next performance.  Their director expressed that he takes pride in his work and wants it to go flawlessly — this is an attitude shared by every professional involved.

Last week, Keith Ferrone, the choreographer, joked that I would be handing over the final version of the file a half-hour before performance.  I didn’t realize how close this prediction would be!  After the run-through finished, Keith requested two little timing changes before the evening’s performance.  They were simple enough, so I agreed.  When I went home to shower and change I setup my laptop and made the changes, outputting four new files for that purpose.

This meant, of course, that my final files had not been fully tested in a runthrough, and I was calmly sweating bullets until the end of the ballet.  I did NOT want to be the person who single-handedly would bring the show to its knees!

The performance went really well.  Yes, little glitches, but again and again a smile came to the face seeing things coinciding perfectly to enhance the performance value.

So today I relax, letting concern fly to the winds.  Tomorrow it is back to work.

And this week I PROMISE to visit museums.  Starting today!  I’ll report in tomorrow.
All my love and gratitude to everyone who has made this trip possible.

Bargello Colonnade, stage right

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Dress Rehearsal at the Museo del Bargello

It was a hectic and fruitful (albeit dissatisfying) tech run-through last night.  We managed to uncover a plethora of potential problems to be solved by tonight.  I’m very impressed with everyone’s professionalism and good humor.  I hope you’ll forgive me for not taking photos at the performance tonight.  There will be plenty of people doing that.  I want to keep it simple for this one.

Tons of work to do before guests arrive at 7pm… troubleshooting to be done in every possible direction.

Photos from Dress Rehearsal:

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Familiarity and Ignorance

There was a moment, yesterday, in the dance studio when I was crossed over into a different frame of reference.  I was sitting by the computer manning the controls to start and stop the music. It was a pause in the dancing while differences in how to do a routine were worked out. There was lots of talking going on, mostly in Italian, except for occasional translations for the English dancer in the troupe.  There was talking and talking and talking… and suddenly the mind let go needing to make translations for it.  Soon even the psyche let go needing to make sense of it.  It was just is-ness.  There was instant serenity and peace.  And joy.  There was just whatever was arising, and the bodymind was not adding anything to it.

In that moment the truth of Bhagavan Adi Da’s Statement came home, “You are not familiar with anything whatsoever.”

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